What is adventure racing?
An adventure race is when two to four people decide they want to ‘challenge themselves’ and pay eye-watering sums of money to a race organiser who will facilitate their adventure. It says ‘race’ on the tin, but unless you’re at the pointy end it would more appropriately be called ‘survival’ as merely making it to the finish line, having completed the entire course, is an achievement. In return for their handsome bounty the race organiser sets the course (around 500 - 600 km) plans where to put the checkpoints (CP - like orienteering flags with hole punches to prove you have been there), provide basic sit-on-top kayaks, negotiates with a bazillion land managers for permits, transports racer’s gear between transition areas (TA), makes the maps, and magics up some staff who don’t mind camping out at TAs for up to 6 days and remaining cheerful. In retrospect, the entry fee seems unlikely to cover all of this. The core disciplines are trekking, mountain biking and kayaking, but others may have additional ones like packrafting. Racers are given maps just before the start with CPs and TAs to navigate to using a compass, and they must plan the route which they believe will be the fastest.
The Legend
My husband I met in 2016 during this race in its previous iteration of XPD. It was the World Championships that year and we were placed on a team together which was the most extreme first date ever. Fast forward to 2025, we got married four months ago and, and since the race was on our doorstep outside Hobart, we thought it would make a fitting ‘honeymoon’.
Leg 1 - Huon River Kayak, Huonville to Franklin, 15km, 3 hours
We ended up quite well on this river paddle despite being absolutely crap at paddling. We made a late course change to avoid going all the way around the bottom of an island to TA. We joined other teams, cutting across the reeds by carrying and pushing our boat whilst falling into the marsh and struggling to get up. I'm unsure if this gained us any time but we are willing to go to great lengths to not be in the kayak.
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Short cut? Pushing the boats through the reeds. |
Leg 2 - Bike, Franklin to Hartz Peak Carpark, 51km (1756m ascent), 4h 45m.
After a brisk TA we started the relentless grinding climb up to Hartz Peak. We love riding but we did not love this climb. We took it in chunks and tried to pace ourselves for the trek at the top. Lots of supporters from the local clinic where John works were out to wish us well. Apologies to the lady I flashed while getting changed but it’s really just par for the course in AR.
Leg 3 - Trek, Hartz Peak rogaine, 9km (470m ascent) 2h 45m
The majority of the CPs are numbers which must be collected in order. But there may be intermittent rogaine legs where CPs are letters, and can be collected in any order, with teams picking the best route to attack the CP from. This was one of the few legs with off-track CPs. The Tasmanian scrub is so thick there are few opportunities to get off track. If you push through the bush here, it pushes back. John did well navigating through this one and we finished quite quickly. Some teams had hair-raising experiences with moving rocks and boulders though, with one guy losing the top of his thumb to a sliding slab, and needing to have it reattached in the local hospital. It is a reminder that this is definitely NOT a controlled environment.
Leg 4 - Bike, Hartz Peak to Tahune, 30km (355m ascent), 1h 45m
It was a nice feeling whizzing back down the enormous climb and on to Tahune. The first night fell and we donned the lights and were on the lookout for wildlife which tends to jump out in front of you and take out your wheel. We didn’t see much until we arrived at the Tahune airwalk office and saw some delightful spotted quolls. It’s so rare to see these so it’s always so special when they appear. We were initially puzzled by the road end and a closed gate, until we saw the event flag beyond the gate and found the lock was actually open. As we approached TA we were given a map for two ‘bonus’ CPs which were on the airwalk itself. These would have been spectacular during the day but all we saw was the metal walkway before heading back to TA for the night paddle.
Leg 5 - Paddle, Tahune to Judbury, 26km, 6 hours
On most races I’ve been in, any white-water paddling was either done early in the race in daylight, or was ‘dark zoned’ forcing teams to camp on the bank until the sun rose. But these were ‘easy’ rivers apparently - Grades 1-2 with one grade 3 rapid which could be portaged. To the non-paddler giving me gradings is like telling me how many knots the wind is blowing - totally meaningless. But the red race mist had fallen so in the river we went, with our borrowed paddling cags and a new 1200 lumen waterproof headlamp I recently bought. Even with this light it was very difficult to see a way through the rapids before we were already in them. It was after midnight when we first went upside down in the river. It was a bit of a shock, as we had assumed that the boats were pretty stable despite the white water. The paddling gear I had wasn’t waterproof for actual swimming so I got quite wet, but was still quite warm and full of adrenaline. Our gear managed to stay attached to the boat with bungee cords and John had made an excellent Temu purchase of some paddle leashes so they didn’t float down the river without us. Sadly, our comfortable gel padded kayak seats were lost though, leaving us to contemplate hours of discomfort on the later paddle legs. We fell in again later on what seemed like an easy section. Choosing to portage the grade 3 rapid we had a lot of difficulty carrying our boat over the rocks. Even once we took our gear off and carried it separately, it seemed extraordinarily heavy. Pulling up at the pontoon in TA, we were told we had to carry our boat up to the shed. This involved walking up a very slippery metal ramp which I had to grab on to the handrails just to navigate, sans boat. This didn’t seem possible until John realised our boat had a hole in it and spent 5 minutes emptying water out of the bung hole. Either, we were unlucky to get one with a hole, or, we had actually punctured the boat on our many bumps into river rocks. Oops - sorry Chris. Getting fully changed into dry clothes for the next leg, we then entered a fully heated hut and were offered hot chocolate. I cannot stress how much this is the exception in adventure racing, but it was very welcome after such a cold paddle. It was at this point we were given the maps for the rest of the course, which we then had to sit and mark up with our route. It was quite difficult to think and we spent too long enjoying the warmth while other teams headed out, but eventually we set out on the long trek leg before sunrise.
Leg 6 - Trek, Judbury to Styx Forest, 86km (2470m ascent), 27h 30m
This was another rogaine leg so CPs could be collected in any order. Also, there were 14 CPs total but we only needed to choose 10 to get. This leaves some room for strategy. We were with the leading teams at this point and feeling relatively good given the missed night of sleep. During racing I am always slightly hotter or colder than I’d prefer. Due to the necessity to carry gear in a backpack, and wear your race bib outside of all your clothing, doing the ‘jacket on jacket off’ routine wastes a lot of time. For teams who hope to win, this would be kept to a minimum by suffering through the freezing downhill so you don’t overheat on the next uphill. And by coordinating stoppages, like making the decision for everyone to get their lights out and mounted at the same time. Anything you need to access regularly would be kept in small pockets on the outside of your pack so that you or a team member can access it without having to take a pack off. We did this well at the start of the race, but were definitely faffing about by day 2. I could hear Gary, our previous team captain, yelling in my ears “Stop faffing”. At dawn John got an attack of the sleepies where he just couldn’t keep his eyes open. He walked, eyes closed, while holding my backpack for a while, until we stopped for a 20 minute power nap. It was too cold for me to sleep but I enjoyed the sun coming up on the next day. Getting to CP ‘S’, our plan was to ‘punch through’ the bush to R. But due to the density of the scrub, it was very clear that this would be both unpleasant and perhaps impossible. A quick route change was made where we abandoned any CPs involving being off-track, collected on track marks, and went the long way around on Styx road. This did require a leap of faith as our route involved a gap between two maps. We were reasonably sure the roads met up and matched, but there ended up being a bit more missing from the maps than planned. Some of the teams had an absolute nightmare bashing around in the scrub trying to take the most direct line. However the long flat walk along Styx road to the final CPs felt like a death march. Having so little to stimulate our brains through our second night without proper sleep, we were both having microsleeps on our feet and walking into each other and off-track. Our 90 minute sleep during the day had not been that restful. Tip: don’t sleep near a creek as this is where the mosquitoes live. We had a few 20 minute naps in the forest at night. It is so interesting how much warmer it is in the trees than it is on the fireroad. It was difficult to sleep thinking of all the creepy crawlies which could be running over me. We were so relieved to find a fire going in the remote TA at the end of 27 hours of trekking, and we got offered some more hot chocolate. We went from feeling unsure we would be able to ride our bikes safely to being full of energy when the sun came up. Fatigue is a very subjective thing and small things like warmth, food and daylight can be enough to push it down, for a while.
Leg 7 - Bike, Styx forest to Lake Pedder 60km (1100m ascent), 7 hours
After our miraculous recovery from the trek, we headed out on bikes toward Lake Pedder. The Mueller road climbs were steep but still just manageable in our easiest 12 speed gearing. John had developed some hot-spots on his feet so we stopped just short of the intersection of the dirt road with the bitumen of Scott’s Peak road. John laid down with his feet up hill to see if this alleviated the pain. I used this opportunity to reapply chamois cream to my badly chaffed crotch. There was a nice breeze blowing so I just stood there with my bike shorts around my knees and let the air do its thing. And of course this was the exact moment a worker in high viz just HAD to pull up to the gate to access this remote road. John quickly scrambled to avoid being run over and I hurriedly pulled my knicks up. The guy drove up to us, wound the window down and asked “are you guys OK?”. “Just tired” we replied, which made no sense in the context of what he’d seen but he drove off, with a good story for his mates at smoko break.
I’d previously made an error by leaving the CP punch card in my bike shorts at a previous TA so we’d been taking photos of each CP to prove we had been there. Not usually being shouldered with such responsibility I kept forgetting I had it and wasn’t as careful as I should have been. It ended up falling out on this leg due to a partially closed zip pocket on my shorts. I was furious with myself and rode several kilometres back to see if it was still lying on the road. Alas, the road is trafficked by some enormous trucks and such a flimsy piece of paper wouldn’t stay put in a slight breeze. We learned a valuable lesson: don’t give Jodie the punch card. The CP descriptions were also on the back of the card which made finding them more difficult. We went back to taking photos of every CP and made our way to TA. By this time the pain in John’s feet was immense and he had tears in his eyes as he rode straight to the lake to soak them and hopefully reduce the swelling.
Leg 8 - Kayak, Lake Pedder 36km (700m ascent for hill climbs), 18 hours
This was the leg all non-kayakers were dreading. 50km on a lake, with at least some in the cold of night. This day was also John’s birthday and he got the present he really wanted - a shortened paddle leg. The original course was deemed ‘too epic’ and would have teams out well past cut-off time. We paddled out on the most glorious day - warm, cloudless blue sky, no wind. Far from being our worst leg it became our favourite - while the sun was up, at least. Another rogaine leg, we had to get 6 CPs at least, but we got up to 8 hours time bonus for getting all 8. This included two on the top of Mt Solitary and Scott’s Peak. We chose to go all in and so knocked off the mountain-top CPs first. Being on top of Solitary for sunset was the most special part of the event. Surrounded by the significant mountains of the South-west we could scarcely believe we hadn’t done this before. Arriving back at the boats just as it was getting dark we thought paddling along the shore at night would be relatively easy to get the rest of the CPs.
At no time in the past 8 years have I said to John “Hey let's go out on the kayak tonight and try to navigate in the dark”. The situation was not helped by there being no moon and the night so inky black that we couldn't even see the outline of the mountains to get our bearings. It turns out we missed one optional CP by about 100m. But the real trouble started as we rounded a headland to go back to TA and a strong westerly wind had waves breaking over the boat. Sitting on the kayak was like riding a bucking horse. With the sad realisation that the camping gear we had packed back at TA was out of reach, we got changed into dry gear, made a nest in some long grass, and climbed into our emergency space blankets to wait for sunrise. Whilst not exactly luxury, it was comfortable enough for us to oversleep, and wake up to a beautiful morning on the lake.
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Who needs a honeymoon hotel when you have button grass? |
Losing so much time we started to really lag in our transitions. We remarked that we didn’t really mind as we had met some lovely friendly people who we wouldn’t have had the opportunity to engage with if we had rushed more. And this was our last adventure race (I now have John on video confirming this!) so we should enjoy it and soak up the atmosphere. Going into another our third long night on the bike we were just hoping to finish the race and without a major relationship blow up. I won’t say there weren’t tense moments. But it was easy to chalk them up to being tired or hungry. I think we were far more generous to each other’s moods which is often not the case in everyday life. Because telling your partner to “snap out of it” always brings relationship harmony, right?
Leg 9 - Bike, Lake Pedder to Bushy Park 133km (2170m ascent), 21 hours
Known as ‘the long bike’ we were relatively in our element. Riding along firetrails at night is the perfect way to fill your Tasmanian animal bingo card. We saw wombats and the first Tasmanian Devil I had ever seen in the wild. We had our lowlight of the entire race when we opted for an alternative route called Tim’s track, after receiving some local information that the main route, Cook’s track, was in appalling condition for riding. Tim’s track started fine - a little narrow for riding so having to negotiate spiky shrubs hitting our knuckles. But the connector Adamsfield track was just literally not there anymore. The trees blocking the track were so big that I had to hand my bike UP to John to carry over them. The trail got more faint but we were convinced we were still on it. Eventually we could no longer see it and did not really know where we were or how to get back. I can’t really describe the full extent of the badness here. It was thick rainforest, 7 foot high ferns and lots and lots of large fallen trees - and we had bikes. We called a halt to reconsider our options, ate a can of rice cream, and then decided to take a bearing for a road further up the hill which was a) hopefully there, and b) joined back on to Cook’s track. We were moving at maybe 500m every hour for 2.5 hours. John was flattening the ferns and trying not to break his leg walking on the rotten logs which formed the ground. My job was to ferry the bikes individually up to where John was making progress.
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One of the 'easier' parts of Adamsfield Track. |
After burning a lot of energy we got back on track. The CP right inside the Junee Caves was a nice touch and John chivalrously got it so I could keep my shoes dry. I thought doing this leg at night would spare us from the logging trucks which frequent the forestry road. I absolutely did not know that loggers work at 2am and we were occasionally forced into a ditch to avoid being squashed by a truck. It was day 4 by this stage and we were well and truly sick of all our race food. Rolling into Maydena at 9pm we were very surprised to find Maydena Eats still open and serving food, and we were ever, ever so grateful. We warned the staff not to get too close to us as it had been quite some time since we had seen a shower. After downing some Coke and two of Maydena’s finest burgers and chips we rode on to the next TA and into our fourth night on course.
Leg 10 - Paddle, Bushy Park to New Norfolk 24km, 6 hours
Getting into TA a few hours before dawn, we did not fancy another paddle/swim in the dark, and this river had some serious rapids on it. I bundled up in my space blanket for another night and napped on the concrete floor in a shed. I am like the princess and the pea at home, but during races I am always surprised at where I can sleep. Once it was light, we got in the river for the final time. In the daylight, rapids are actually fun. We made the hectic ones and then fell out on an easier section after getting caught on a log. I didn’t even care and was happy floating down the river before John started yelling at me to get back in the boat. The next TA was actual luxury and we took up the offer of a hot shower before the final ride. It was our first taste of civilisation for days and, lacking towels, we dried ourselves under the hand drier in some sort of ‘full body bidet’ experience.
Leg 11 - Bike, New Norfolk to Huonville 62km (1620m ascent), 6h 30m
We were back on home turf now and were familiar with the tracks for the final leg. This was unfortunate because we knew the Eastwest track was horrible and we do try to avoid riding it at all costs. The leading teams had taken the original climb up to the Eastwest but were turned away by the private landowner who knew nothing about the race. A quick course change later and we were going up Jeffrey’s track which was quite nice. It was so relaxing that John fell asleep while riding and woke up looking over a cliff. After a 20 minute nap while laying in a ditch on our packs we were on our way to more suffering. The Eastwest track is meant for 4WD access, not riding. It has steep pinches made harder by a surface of loose rocks - some small and some the size of babies' heads. This means a lot of walking uphill in bike shoes, which is everyone's least favourite thing. Many teams abandoned their bikes to walk the final pitch to the start of the Collins Bonnet track. But I was adamant we were riding all the way down and grunted and groaned my bike up the hill. A quick selfie at the top of Collins Bonnet before we bombed it all the way down to Crabtree.
We had to stop halfway down to shake our hands out from the fast rough track and aggressive braking. The last time I did this descent was when we were bike packing and I had a saddle bag getting all up in my business, so making full use of the dropper post was a welcome change. We crossed the line just on sunset and were treated to ginger beer and hot meat pies.
The End (107h 39m)
When Covid stopped all racing in 2020, I had drawn a line under it for myself as well. I didn’t feel there was anything I had left to do to demonstrate my skill at suffering. Some people can sing and others can build things. When your special skill is being able to fight pain and fatigue you end up in endurance sports. They have brought me so many experiences, friends and joy, but once you have no ‘why’ they can just be a bit miserable. It was only during the race that I understood John’s ‘why’. Since 2019 he has had a series of medical issues - stroke, open heart surgery, shoulder, wrist and Achilles surgeries, and had been hit by a car with 5 spinal fractures. He wanted one last long race to prove he had physically recovered from all the setbacks. I’m glad my special skill of suffering meant I could share that with him, and it certainly gave me a reason to keep pushing through the difficult times.
As usual I have a new appreciation for hot showers, freshly cooked food and a warm comfortable bed. After doing something extremely physically difficult, I have a different perspective on the truly hard things in life. It is the most amazing feeling having no phone for 5 days. No email, no news, no constantly being fire-hosed with information and things which demand my attention. We were surprised the pope was still alive when we finished. You want to know what the difficult things in life are? Try dealing with HR when your pay is incorrect. Or any contact with any government bureaucracy. These feel like the very difficult things that want to make you want to claw your own eyes out in frustration. What about deciding what you want to cook over an entire week and then wandering around the store looking for niche ingredients you’ll never use again? When your only concerns are keeping warm, eating, and moving, things get really simple. Many of the things we do each day are perhaps not difficult, but they are not simple, and this feels hard. Life feels hard because it is full of complex choices which we feel we must weigh. Some of these choices are needlessly complex and our decisions arbitrary, but for some reason they don’t feel this way. It feels like not ordering the steak will retrospectively actually affect our enjoyment of a significant occasion. There is a difference between difficult and frustrating. Frustrating is when your efforts to complete something which should be easy on the face of it, are obstructed for obscure reasons. Sometimes doing 530 kms on very little sleep seems easy, and makes more sense, than a lot of what I do, day to day. I expect some other people may feel this way, but there doesn’t seem to be an obvious solution to divorce ourselves from the noise of the modern world, which doesn’t leave us sleeping in the dirt.